What Is Ankara Fabric? History, Names and How to Tell Real Wax from Polyester
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Ankara is the bold, colorful wax-print cotton fabric worn across West and Central Africa and the diaspora. It's the fabric of everyday dresses, Sunday best, weddings and family photos. Here's what it is, where it came from, and how to tell real wax from a copy.
What is Ankara fabric made of?
Traditional Ankara is 100% cotton. Designs are printed using a wax-resist method: resin or wax is applied to the cloth, the cloth is dyed, and the wax blocks the dye where it sits. Repeating this builds up layers of color. Because the resin goes through the cloth, the design shows on both sides. Lower-cost versions are printed digitally or by roller, often on polyester, and copy the look without the wax process.
A short history of African wax print
The technique comes from Indonesian batik. In the 1800s, Dutch and British textile makers built machines to imitate batik, hoping to sell it in Southeast Asia. It sold far better in West Africa, especially along the Gold Coast (now Ghana), where traders and buyers made the bold prints their own. Over the next century, African merchants, many of them women, shaped which designs succeeded. Many prints carry names and meanings, and local mills in Ghana, Nigeria, Côte d'Ivoire and elsewhere began producing their own wax prints. Today the fabric is made in Africa, Europe and Asia, and worn worldwide.
Other names for Ankara
- African wax print or wax print: the general English term.
- Dutch wax, Holland wax or Hollandais: names that point to the European-made history.
- Real wax or super wax: market terms for higher-quality cotton wax prints.
- Kitenge or chitenge: common names in East and Southern Africa.
- Pagne: used in French-speaking West Africa for a length of wax print.
How to tell real wax from polyester Ankara
| Real wax (cotton) | Polyester print | |
|---|---|---|
| Back of fabric | Almost as bright as the front | Noticeably paler |
| Look | Fine crackle lines and slight color variation | Perfectly even color |
| Feel | Crisp, matte and breathable | Smooth, slightly shiny and warmer to wear |
| Price for 6 yards | About $50 to $125 at Chinwe | About $20 to $73 at Chinwe |
Both have their place: real wax for clothes you'll wear often, polyester for crafts, decor and budget projects. Every Chinwe listing names the material.
Dressier Ankara: stoned, flash gold and sequin
For parties and weddings, wax prints are finished with rhinestones (stoned Ankara), metallic glitter (flash gold) or sewn-on sequins. Read stoned vs flash gold vs sequin to compare them.
Where to buy Ankara fabric in the U.S.
Chinwe's Patterns is an online African fabric store based in Portland, Oregon, shipping across the United States. Shop 100% cotton real wax, stoned Ankara, Kente-pattern fabric and new arrivals, mostly in 6-yard pieces, with free U.S. shipping on orders of $75 or more.